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The wind has dropped, slowing my final approach to Antigua. It’s a little frustrating, but manageable.
If all goes to plan, I should arrive sometime on Sunday, around 50 days after leaving La Gomera.
It’s been every bit the challenge I hoped it would be.
The Atlantic isn’t an environment humans are designed to thrive in, and at six foot eight on a 22 foot boat, that’s been especially clear at times.
Space is limited, comfort is relative, and nothing comes easily. But despite that, I’ve loved every minute of it.
The boat has handled everything the ocean has thrown at us, and when I look back over the crossing, a few moments stand out.
The first was the wildlife.
Dolphins appeared on day two. On day three, I was joined by a pod of pilot whales — three of them, two smaller and one larger. They circled me for around ten minutes, calm and curious. At one point, one of the smaller whales slipped beneath the boat, which was exhilarating, right up until the brief thought crossed my mind that I hoped they didn’t take the rudder with them.
Another thing that’s stayed with me hasn’t necessarily been enjoyable, but it has been deeply meaningful wasn’t how isolated I felt out here, but how connected I’ve felt.
Messages have come through from people I know, from people I’ve known in the past, and from dozens of people I’ve never met.
Many have shared their experiences of Lewy Body Dementia and explained what following this row has meant to them.
On the harder days, when I’ve felt particularly tired, I’ve found myself reading a handful of messages on the charity site, then getting back on the oars with renewed purpose.
The final thing is the night sky.
I’ve been listening to audiobooks about the universe — so much so that I’ve listened to them five times over.
Living in a big city like London, you forget what the sky really looks like. Out here, without light pollution, the breathtaking tapestry of the Milky Way stretches overhead in a way I’ve only ever seen in photographs.
Listening with wonderment to descriptions of black holes, rogue planets, and distant galaxies while staring directly up at the infinite number of stars has been quietly extraordinary.
This has been an immensely challenging and deeply profound experience — one I’ll treasure for the rest of my life.
More than anything, I feel grateful for the chance and privilege to be out here at all, and for every mile that has brought me closer to Antigua.
